IRELAND . .Church. . Sunday morning, I'm invited to a tiny private protestant church, built by a wealthy Welshman for residents here on the Bubb Estate. It's a quaint work of art. Frescoes were painted by Italian painters in 1854. Wearing tails and tophats, they worked by the light of candles held by local children. Later, as I pedal weakly into the wind with rain in my face, ninety bikers whiz by me. They're on a 100-mile bicycle tour around Wales. I can't keep up with the slowest of them!

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