INDIA.. Kerala Lunch . . .A Kerala family hears of us, and invites me to lunch. Served on banana leaves, the food is elaborate and the best I've eaten in India. In fair English, the woman tells me the amazing history of Kerala, which ranks among the world's best in quality of life, literacy, and health. Yet, despite the feminist background of Kerala, she eats separately in the kitchen. Another day, a woman at right invites me to her kitchen, an unexpected intimacy, and allows me to draw her there.